Are twelve trains too many for a day trip?

Warning: train geek blog this week. Strap in.

You may know that I like trains. I am not a train spotter because I don’t collect numbers and don’t recognise locomotives. Instead I am very happy sitting on a train by a window just watching the world go by. For my 60th birthday I spent a month interrailing all around Europe on trains and I absolutely loved it. But until this week I had never been on 12 trains in a day.

On Tuesday I set off at 6am with my brother in law Stephen and my elder son, Robbie. Stephen and I had discovered some bargain train tickets called “Ffestiniog Round Robins” which allowed a circular trip all around North Wales, including the famous Ffestiniog narrow gauge steam railway.

First we had to get to the area, so we took a local train from Kirkham & Wesham to Preston, and then the big Avanti West Coast Inter City down to Warrington. Here we caught our first Welsh trains to Chester and then along the coast to Llandudno Junction. Llandudno itself is a pretty seaside town but the junction is a more grim, rundown area that used to house a big railway works and a Hotpoint washing machine factory. Here we found the best value cooked breakfast I have had in a very long time. For £7.99 we got goood quality sausages, bacon, egg, beans, buttered toast and a cup of coffee. Yum.

Feeling sated we hopped onto the next train, back inland through beautiful Welsh hills to Blaenau Ffestiniog. Blaenau was once home to many slate mines, and you can see the big tips of slate as you pass. These days it is much more of a tourist destination and as we arrived at the steam train we were not surprised to see many tourist coaches offloading trippers for the journey to Porthmadog. I love the smell and nostalgia of steam locomotives and knew I would enjoy this stretch, but had not expected the spectacular views. The train clings to the side of a mountain and you can see for miles across the valley floor as it winds around the contours.

Porthmadog was heaving with holidaymakers, filling the streets, the tat shops and amusement arcades. I had hoped to get fish and chips from a shop that is famous for multiple kinds of curry sauce. I am not normally allowed to eat curry at home because Mandy hates the smell, but I thought I could get away with a little chip sauce at lunchtime. But Steve and Robbie preferred the idea of a picnic, so we picked up french bread, ham, brie and salami for lunch on the next train.

The line from Porthmadog to Machynlleth is a beautiful stretch of coastline. It is peppered with static caravan parks, and the train was packed with their occupants, enjoying a traditional British holiday. The air conditioning was not working so it was a bit of a sauna, but I still loved looking out to sea. From Machynlleth the trains to Shrewsbury and then Chester were not much better, so by the time we got to Chester we really fancied a cold beer. Robbie googled a proper craft beer pub sitting amongst the victorian station architecture, but our train was late, so we grabbed some IPA cans from the pub and caught our trains to Warrington and then back to Preston.

By the time we had enjoyed the final train back to Kirkham, it was getting late, and we were peckish again, so picked up the biggest kebabs I have ever seen, from Jononi Balti. It was a wonderful end to a wonderful day. But maybe twelve trains was just too many.

What do you think?

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How do I get back my walking fitness?

For the past year, while Ziggy Dog has been unwell, the lengths of my walks have reduced. Now that I just have Lulu I thought I would get back to it. So on Thursday I took her out to do a chunk of he Ribble Way in Preston.

It was a lovely day. The weather was mild. The countryside was beautiful. I got to pretended I was a train on the old tram route into the city. But after 3 miles Lulu had had enough, and got back in the car with Mandy. And after 6 miles I too was knackered.

This is a far cry from the days when I did many long distance walks including the Pennine Way and Wainwright’s Coast to Coast. In those days, 6 miles would be the first fast stretch before breakfast.

So what is the problem? I suppose that at 12 (Lulu) and 62 (me) we are not quite the young pups we once were. I think I need to learn not to push Lulu too hard. We went on a longish walk together when we were in Scotland and it took her three days to recover.

But that is no excuse for me. I may be older and more rotund, but I can definitely regain some of my walking legs. So rather like runners do with Couch to 5k (I hate running) I think I need to build up to longer walks step by step. They will mostly be flat walks when we are out on the boat because canals tend to avoid hills, but when the boating season ends I can try a bit more up and down. Time to see if my new blood pressure tablets are working.

All fine words, but as my Dad used to say “Good intentions butter no parsnips”. Let’s see if there is any action.

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RIP Ziggy

Our dog Ziggy passed away this week. I thought long and hard about whether to write about her in this blog. It is not really the cheery vibe I am used to. Some people will question why it is such a big deal. She was only a dog. Other people will object to having their own sad memories triggered. But I have decided that writing about something else would be disrespectful to Ziggy. She deserves a few words.

We chose Ziggy and her sister Lulu from a litter of Cairn Terriers born in Doncaster in August 2014. Actually, she chose us, walking over to ask to be picked up and cuddled. She was never the most elegant of dogs. She had a broken leg as a puppy because her bones grew too fast, and always walked with a strange gait, rather like muffin the mule. She had big brown eyes that frankly could get her anything she wanted. And what she usually wanted was sausages.

Lulu was our mad dog – chasing squirrels and snarling at the world. Ziggy on the other hand was quiet and loyal. There was nothing she enjoyed more than a “Ziggy cuddle”, where she lay on her back in my arms, with her head dangling to one side.

I would take the dogs on long walks. They particularly enjoyed the West Highland Way and the Southern Upland Way. Lulu would charge ahead till she got tired, and Ziggy would stay close to heel, hoping for treats. We went on long holidays to Scottish islands – Skye, Orkney, Islay and Uist. They loved beaches where they could run a round like mad things.

And both dogs have always liked being on Narrowboat Thuis, their home from home. Ziggy would sit on the back deck of the boat, watching the world go by, while Lulu scanned the towpath for something to bark at. In the evening Ziggy would try to push her luck, asking for an early tea because she was sooooo hungry.

Two years ago she was diagnosed with multiple cancers and given three months to live. The vets have been amazed how our miracle dog in fact survived nearly two years, and had such a happy time. The last few months were more difficult. She was dosed up with pain killers and couldn’t come on those long walks with her sister anymore. But until a couple of weeks ago she was still clearly a contented and happy dog. In the end I think she had finally had enough but obviously it has been very sad to let her go.

But I refuse to leave Ziggy with sad thoughts. My phone screen saver provides random photographs of the dogs and I was worried seeing Ziggy would upset me. But as I see her again, I am reminded of so very many happy memories. She was the best.

Rest in peace my wonderful, loyal, cuddly dog Ziggy.

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Ten reasons I am so happy to be back in Scotland

We are having a week’s holiday in a cottage in Linlithgow this week. The cottage is sadly quite run down, which is disappointing, but despite that we are having a really wonderful time. Here are ten reasons I am so happy to be back in Scotland.

  1. It feels like home. As soon as we crossed the border there was an intangible feeling of relaxation. And as we got closer to where we used to live in West Lothian, we kept seeing memories that reminded us what a great place this is.
  2. The countryside is stunning. Our bricks and mortar house is on the Fylde and these are many pretty areas, including the beach and the Trough of Bowland. But Scotland is simply more dramatic, with hills and lochs. We love it.
  3. We like the Scots. While many of them may have incorrectly supported Argentina in the recent football game, we find Scottish people friendly and helpful. I am not surprised the Americans loved them so much in that same football competition.
  4. Our son and family live here. The main reason to spend a week here this time, was to spend time with Martin, Cheryl, Leah and Nathan. We have the challenge that one of our sons lives near Brighton, and the other in Scotland. We live half way between them, but the trouble is that means we are too far from both of them. It has been lovely to share time with M, C, L, N this week, and we hope to have proper time with Robbie and Alessa in a few week’s time.
  5. Leah and Nathan are the closest thing to grandchildren we are likely to find. Unfortunately Robbie and Tin (Martin) are unlikely to have their own children, but Cheryl’s kids are wonderful to send time with. Leah (16) is turning into a proper artist, with every type of craft, from yarn to paint. Nathan (12) is passionate about football. We have loved spending time with them.
  6. We lived in Uphall for nearly ten years, and made some good friends. This week we also went up to the farm in Fife, to have fish and chips with our niece Rachel, her husband Rob and children Fred and Thomas. We always love their company.
  7. It is cooler than England. The UK is in the middle of yet another heat wave, but Scotland is further north and has been pleasant rather than oppressive. Still warm enough for shorts and t shirts but not so hot we have to seek out shops with air con.
  8. It has the infrastructure of a large country, but the population of a small one. That means you can find anything here that you want to see or do, but the roads are quiet, the footpaths are quiet and no-one seems to be in a hurry.
  9. I love the history. Whether it is remembering the English defeat in the interactive museum at Banockburn. Or trying to visualise what it would have been like in a mining village in Lothian. Or admiring the fine streets of Edinburgh or Glasgow. There is always something to engage the brain cells.
  10. It is a nation of many identities. Every town or area of Scotland seems to have its own accent and own culture. Edinburgh is quite different from Glasgow, despite being a few miles apart. The islands are different from the mainland. The Hebrides are different from the Northern Isles. The Outer Hebrides are different than the Inner Hebrides. Lewis & Harris are quite different from Uist and Eriksay. Round every corner there are new people to meet and new things to learn.

I am not saying the Scotland is perfect. The diet for instance is not the most healthy, but once in a while a battered mac ‘n’ cheese pie roll is just what you want. And why not?

We are back down to England next week, but will return to Scotland in the Autumn for a month near Pitlochry. I think one day, when we no longer use Narrowboat Thuis, we may move back for good. What a lovely place.

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What do you do when your “to do” list is empty?

We came back to the house from the boat on Monday, and as always there was a long list of jobs for me to do. I love a “to do” list. There is something very satisfying about ticking them off one by one.

The car has been washed, the shopping done, the garden has been pruned and tidied. I have been on some lovely walks, digitised my great uncle’s military records, paid my outstanding tax from last year (£1.80!) . I have spent too much money on things I needed from Amazon, drilled some holes with my new drill, deleted old clips from my dashcam. I knew I was scraping the barrel on my list when I even tidied the freezer.

As of today, there are just three things left – book a boiler service for the central heating, book a skiing holiday for January, and learn to fly my drone. The first of these can’t be done for a couple of weeks because I set up a service contract (it was on my list) and it does not start till 21st. The second is a problem because I think Mandy is not keen on going, and I am nervous of poor snow. Learning to fly my drone has been on the list since I was gifted it three years ago but the one time I tried I crashed it, so am not sure what to do.

The best solution is to add more to the list. I can even cheat by including things that require no work. For instance I am going to an outdoor play this evening at Lytham Hall. That can go on the list. We are going to Scotland next week, to spend time with our son Tiny and his family. That should generate multiple list entries.

I do love being retired. When I was working, my home “to do” list had too be squeezed into evenings and weekends. Now I have so much flexibility I can choose pretty much anything I want to do. My work “to do” list used to make me feel important. “Find half a million pounds of cost savings” sounds better than “tidy freezer” but in a strange way is not really more satisfying.

But I do still love my list. I think today I will start with “write my blog”.

What about you? Do you like to live by a list or is that just for weird people like me?

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Is finishing a Narrowboat trip an end, a beginning, or just a pause?

I am writing this while eating a wonderful cooked breakfast at the Saracens Head in Weston, Staffordshire. As we have travelled the UK navigations over the past five years we have found certain places where we always moor for favourites. Weston for breakfast or a pub quiz. High Offley for beer. Rugeley for Tescos. Tixall Wide for the birds and Shugborough Hall. Middlewich for Fish and Chips. It has become less about exploring the new and more about reprising what we love.

The latest trip over the past two months has been a good example of this. We have done the Four Counties Ring many times, and the Caldon canal a couple of years ago. It has been lovely to go back and see so many old haunts. I discovered new places such as the Flint Mill Museum in Cheddleton, and Congleton Town hall. And of course no day is ever the same on a boat. But it has still been a comfort blanket of a trip this time.

And now we re heading back to the Marina and then onwards to bricks and mortar for a month. The end of a trip always gives us mixed feelings. Should we feel sad because this is the end of our latest adventure? Or should we be excited because we are going back to a holiday in Scotland, dentist and doctor appointments, neighbourhood barbecue, car service, three visits to the cricket and our Ruby Wedding party? Or is this just a pause on our Narrowboat life? In just a few weeks we will be back and probably heading down to Gloucester.

I think all three are valid emotions. We are just so very lucky to be able to have such a retirement. The breakfast is pretty good too.

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Five reasons why the Anchor Inn is the best pub on the waterways

I wrote a few years ago about one of my favourite pubs – the Anchor Inn at High Offley. We spent a couple of days moored there this week, trying to shelter from the worst of the heat. Here are five reasons why I love it so much.

  1. It is like pubs used to be. They don’t sell food. They don’t have music except an occasional customer that picks up a guitar. They open at 7pm and close at 11pm. The seats are reclaimed wood. The floors are quarry tiled. There is an open fire, though not in use this week! The landlady finds the right balance between friendly and no-nonsense.
  2. It is really isolated. We first found this pub while doing the Four Counties Ring on a hired Narrowboat forty years ago. I liked it so much that when we got home I tried to find it by using a road map and driving back to the area. This was before the days of Internet and Google. It took me weeks!
  3. It is a proper boaters’ pub. I went there for two evenings this week and both times got lost in chat with boaters. The first night I struck up a conversation with three solo narrowboaters who moor on an isolated stretch of the Birmingham Canal Network (BCN) and come out for trips together a few times a year. I have always been nervous about cruising the BCN because of rumours of rubbish, shallow canals and vandals. These guys recommended the “BCN Explorer”, where a group of boaters like us get together for a guided tour over a week, ending in a big celebration. I do fancy that.
  4. The drinks are well kept. The real ale has been Wadworth’s 6X for at least 45 years. It is served not from a pump on the bar, but collected directly from a barrel in the cellar. They also have scrumpy from the cask. They do have one cold lager and a few bottles of soft drinks and wine for new fangled customers, but this is primarily a beer pub for customers meeting and telling stories of the cut.
  5. It never changes. About sixty years ago Olive took over as a young landlady from her parents and grandparents who were there before. Olive died about ten years ago and her daughter Elaine took over. There are pictures in the bar of how it used to be, and apart from the lack of cigarette smoke, the pub looks exactly the same. When I arrived this week, Elaine was excited about a radical change. Because of an issue at the Wadworth brewery with 6X supply, she had added a second real ale, Renegade’s Good Old Boy. As far as I could see, noone was drinking it.

It really is a lovely pub, and even people like me, who do not really like talking to strangers, get caught in the beery chat. I recommend a visit if you are ever in the Shropshire area. Maybe use google maps rather than guesswork to get there!

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Is the Wardle Canal the shortest in the country?

This week we have been travelling up the Trent & Mersey to Middlewich and then across to join the Shropshire Union at Barbridge. It has been a lovely week, with more sunshine than showers, lots of wild flowers on the towpaths, and a good mixture of industrial history (there were lots of salt mines in the area) and open countryside. As part of the journey we went through what is claimed to be the shortest canal in the UK – the Wardle Canal.

The Wardle Canal

The Wardle Canal was opened in in the early nineteenth century by the Trent & Mersey Canal Company, connecting the T&M to the Middlewich branch of the Shropshire Union. Its sole purpose was so that the T&M could claim full ownership of the junction, and could charge tolls for using it.

It is just 154 feet long from the bridge at the junction, to the bottom of Wardle Lock, and there is a commemorative sign on the bridge claiming it as the shortest canal. But is it?

There are three problems with the claim. It is not 154 feet long, there are shorter competitors, and it is not a canal anyway!

In my view the length should include Wardle Lock, because that was built at the same time, giving a total length of more like 330 feet, according to the Trent & Mersey Society

There are other similar examples of short stretches of water joining canals for the purpose of raising tolls. For instance the Peak Forest is joined to the Ashton by a short aqueduct over the River Tame, that was built by the Ashton company.

I think the biggest challenge to the claim is that it is not really a canal. To be a canal it needed to be authorised by parliament, and built by a private canal company. Stretches off that canal, built by the same company, are called branches. For instance what we call the Middlewich, where we are now, is actually the Middlewich branch of the Shropshire Union. Similarly, the Caldon Canal, which we visited a couple of weeks ago is really the Caldon branch of the Trent & Mersey. So this should be the Wardle branch of the Trent & Mersey.

But…

Mandy says I am frequently unnecessarily pedantic. The bridge at the junction is dated 1829 and clearly calls this “Wardle Canal”. And many boaters for many generations have enjoyed the story of the shortest canal in the UK. So OK, maybe it is.

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Should I be grumpy that Canal & River Trust have not fixed Bosley Locks?

In early May a boat crashed into the bottom gate of Bosley Locks. Bosley are a flight of 12 locks on the Macclesfield canal that raise a boat 118 feet over just half a mile, taking you from the bottom of the canal to the top. They have been closed since then and I am becoming irritated by Canal & River Trust (CRT) not fixing them.

Going down Bosley Locks two years ago

The problem with the locks being out of action are that boaters like us cannot get up to Macclesfield and the Peak Forest Canal without them. There is a theoretical alternative route through Manchester but the Bridgewater Canal is closed due to a breach a couple of years ago, and the Marple flight of locks at the other end of the Macclesfield has just closed due to a broken balance beam.

I have some sympathy with CRT. The damage to the gate was extensive and exacerbated an existing problem with the gates leaking. However, they took weeks before deciding to drain the lock for a proper examination, and then a while to install scaffolding and fix the issue.

As you probably know, we pootled along the Caldon Canal for a while and had a lovely time, but last week they said it would be open at 4pm on Tuesday so we set off. Then, at 1pm on Tuesday CRT sent a notice that they had found another issue and would not be opening. Next update is Friday but I am not holding our breath. We have winded (turned around) and come back to Kidsgrove.

I don’t have a problem with the gate failure. Stuff happens, especially with two hundred year old locks. But I think they should have found the second problem when they examined the lock weeks ago. And I think their communication should have been a lot better throughout.

But we do not live on a boat to get grumpy. We enjoyed our trip up to Congleton, and I had a lovely afternoon looking at the museum and town hall there. It must have been such a dirty smelly mill town a hundred years ago, but is now bright and feels optimistic. And we are currently moored in one of our favourite places, just north of the Harecastle tunnel, where iron ore in the soil makes the canal run red, and the birds seem to sing all day long.

There is another lovely route down the “heartbreak hill” flight of 31 locks towards Middlewich, so we will probably head that way when the rain stops. A good friend is visiting us next week from New Zealand via South America, so we do not want to get too far anyway.

And who knows, maybe on Friday they will tell us Bosley is open again. Life’s too short to be grumpy.

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Is the Caldon Canal the most beautiful?

In last week’s blog I pondered whether we should take Narrowboat Thuis along the Caldon to Froghall, along the Macclesfield and Peak Forest to Whaley Bridge or up the Trent & Mersey to Middlewich. Our answer was to try to do all three. This week we have been cruising the Caldon, and it is one of the quietist and most beautiful canals we have visited.

We left the Trent & Mersey in Stoke at Etruria. This is where Josia Wedgewood had his china factory and it has much industrial history. When we passed through there was a canal festival going on, so the canal was lined with historical boats and maybe a thousand gongoozlers (people who like to watch boats).

The first few miles of the Caldon are notorious and you are advised not to moor if you don’t want to meet dodgy characters. So it was no surprise when the boat suddenly stalled with a duvet wrapped around the propellor. Fortunately I have recently purchased a bread knife to keep in the engine bay for things like this and after a few minutes I had cut myself free.

A few miles later, the character of the canal changed completely. Surrounded by trees and plants it meanders through Staffordshire. We cruised up the Leek Branch first and moored for a couple of days by a lake. It was very peaceful except when the cows decided to visit.

Then back to the mainline and through the Churnett valley to Froghall. At times the canal is only wide enough for one, but not many boats come down here so it was fine. There is a tunnel at the end of the navigation but it is too low for NB Thuis so we turned around.

The strangest thing for me about this lovely canal is that it was not always this way. It was built for heavy industry and in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries it would have been filthy with effluent from lime and flint kilns, coal mines and colour mills, feeding the factories of Stoke on Trent and further afield. We are currently moored next to a Flint Mill museum, which is absolutely fascinating. Who knew that fine china was made with more ground flint than clay. I did not even realise that bone china is actually made with 50% cattle bones.

So is the Caldon the most beautiful canal? I’ll let you know when we have been back on the Peak Forest!

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