Ten reasons to love and hate the Rochdale and Ashton Canals

We completed the Rochdale and Ashton canals this week. Both have pretty terrible reputations as they go through some of the most deprived areas of Manchester. But what is the truth? Let’s consider some of the stories you hear.

1. They are really hard work. True. The Ashton out of Manchester is just lock after lock. The Rochdale has very heavy lock gates and some of the paddles require super human strength. Some of the pounds between the locks drain all too easily, leaving the boat grounded. Everything is doable but it is hard work.

2. They are very beautiful. True. I was not expecting quite how beautiful considering the canals travel through areas that once were heavy industry. Calderdale between Sowerby Bridge and the summit is particularly lovely, as is the top end of the Ashton as it joins the Peak Forest.

3. They are full of junk. Sadly true. We lots count of shopping trolleys, items of clothing, plastic bottles in the canals. The trick is to keep the boat in the middle of the canal, but even then we found ourselves stuck on silt banks and with a coat wrapped around our propellor.

4. There are lots of dodgy characters. Partly true. As with all city centre canals there are occasional drug users and inquisitive kids, but we found that if we engaged with them as human beings there was no trouble,

5. The canals are hard to navigate. Mostly false. So long as you don’t try to go too fast, stay away from the junk, and fill up empty pounds, it is not so difficult.

6. They keep getting blocked. True. Failing locks and falling trees caused five or six blockages while we were on these canals. One or two of them looked as if they might delay us for weeks. The fact is that the Canal and River Trust no longer do preventative maintenance. They just fix things when they break. I understand they have no money but I think that is a mistake.

7. You can’t find somewhere to moor. True. The canals are very silted so it is not possible to moor by most towpaths. There are numerous locks with no mooring between them. The good news however is that we found some fantastic moorings. Hats off to the Hopwood Arms for fantastic fresh pizza and allowing me to use their water tap to fill my boat.

8. They are low on water. False right now. By reputation these canals can run out of water because the locks leak so badly, and we did experience this a little but in general it has been a very wet year. Bad for our moods but good for keeping the canals filled.

9. No one uses these canals. True for the Rochdale. The Ashton Canal forms part of the “Cheshire Ring” and so gets a fair few boats, but the Rochdale was very very quiet. We saw a few hire boats between Sowerby Bridge and Hebden Bridge, but between Todmorden and Central Manchester no more than six or seven boats travelling like us.

10. They are good to do once but that’s all. False. I must admit when we had finished the long final day into Manchester on the Rochdale I did say “never again”. But I think the pluses make it worth it. Lovely dramatic canals with a great mix of countryside and old industry. We will be back…. one day.

Going over the top

This week we have been travelling on the Rochdale Canal, from Sowerby Bridge over the Pennines to Littleborough and then next week to Manchester. I have avoided doing “the Rochdale” on our travels because it has a negative reputation of being very very hard work. But the plus side is the very dramatic countryside, especially when you go over the top to an aptly named village called “Summit”.

The reputation for being hard work has been borne out, with low water levels, heavy lock gates and sticky paddles, as well as a tree across the canal. And we have not done the hardest bit yet, the run down to Manchester Piccadilly. But we have had a good week, visiting an area where we used to live – Calderdale, home to the “Happy Valley” TV series – in real life with fewer murders.

We have had an evening and a day with Mandy’s brother Stephen, helping manage the locks, and our son Tin has popped by to bring us various post from home. So it has been a week of scenery, family and aching muscles. A good week.

Next week through Manchester. Wish me luck!

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